Croatia Day 4: Hvar (Part 2)

It’s funny how hard it can be to find the beach when you’re on an island…

Rachel and I are staying in a house that’s located what would be about a 10-minute walk from town if it weren’t for the fact that the walk is almost entirely uphill and very steep at points. The sunset picture I’ve posted is the view from where we are. It’s a good workout! Anyway, we weren’t sure exactly how to make our way down to the approximate location of the beach, so we had a journey with some backtracking – not big deal. We eventually got to an area where essentially several hundred yards of the rocky coastline is the default “beach.” Being here definitely requires an expansion of the beach concept since in the US we only have sandy beaches; most of the beaches in Croatia have pebbles or, in this case, are not beaches at all but rather shallow outcroppings of rock that lead into the sea. We spread our towels on the rough rocks just as we would for sand, but eventually a couple who’d been occupying two chaise lounges near us left, so we took the chairs. We had a great view of not only the main harbor but also several of the small islands right across the bay (where there are apparently other beaches, including some nudist beaches!). I can’t post any pictures because we didn’t bring phones with us, but I’ll try to post a pic later if I have time to go back there.

Without phones or watches, we spent the entire afternoon there in the sun before finally deciding it was time to have “lunch.” It was around 4:15 at this point, but we wanted to go ahead and have our big meal of the day so that we wouldn’t be stuffed for our big night out.

[now writing at 11:30 Tuesday morning]

We had a pretty great night! I am proud that I was able to stay awake until 5 with no problem. We met a lot of great people – first a group of Black New Yorkers who are here for Yacht Week; they could dance like nobody’s business, and when we said as much, we were invited to join their group for a while. This was at Top Bar, the open air, top floor bar at the Hotel Adriana with great views of the whole harbor. Eventually the place filled up with Yacht Week people (most of whom were around my age), and Rachel and I concluded that we need to do Yacht Week at some point. It seems like too much fun!

From there we went to Kiva, a bar situated in an alley that was crowded with people. We’d heard tell of a “helmet shot” and did one of our own. The bartender put a military helmet on our head, wrapped the glass with the shot in it in a towel, and then hit the glass against the helmet REALLY HARD maybe 10 times before handing it to us to drink, while onlookers cheered us on. I have no idea how or why this practice originated, but it’s certainly unique!

We met a group of really nice German guys who were happy to have us join them at THE nighttime destination, Carpe Diem’s outpost on a nearby island. Led by Filip, who is Croatian but grew up in Germany, we hopped on a boat and soon found ourselves on the island and enjoying bottle service. Because I’m also German, I got language lessons in both Croatian and German (my phone now has Note pages with phrases in both). We had a great time hanging out and came back over to Hvar around 4:30 I think.

Great night!

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